I inhaled and was immediately taken to a familiar place. Coriander, cumin, rosewater, basmati rice. Everything was a delight to the senses, from the music of familiar tones to the artwork depicting spice markets and Bollywood glamor. Every detail in Cheeni took me back to the verandas of the country I was born in. Upon a quick glance, I could have been transported to the Calcutta Club.
Tonight I ate a taste of home.
Hariyali whole fish, street style toast, and the best chai I’ve ever had (perfectly layered spices and not treacly sweet, unlike the sugary stuff of most coffee shops). The fish was tender and flavorful, reminiscent of the meals at home when we gathered at the table eating with our hands in the traditional Indian manner. The simple street style toast was my comfort food growing up, just as my mother made for me as a snack, extra chilis, sliced paper thin. My friends enjoyed the Bengali roast chicken, a nod to my own mother’s kitchen. And the sweets are perfectly spiced, brimming with the familiar flavors of cardamom and ginger.
Never was a place more aptly named.
“Cheeni” means “sugar” in my native tongue. It was a gift to the gods in our home temple offerings, and I’d say the sentiment rings true. I’ll be back to try all the dishes on the menu. I already have my eye on the tandoori vegetables, and I know my sons will want the lamb vindaloo. Grab some Bold Batch ice cream to bring home. Mangonada is serving size one (which means I want the whole pint to myself).
Walking into Cheeni Indian Food Emporium felt magical and special. It’s not often I see my old favorites like Limca and Thums Up sodas on a menu. My cultural comfort foods are not mainstream, but we’re getting one step closer so you too can taste the delights of my childhood. Preeti’s vision has manifested in a way to make us all yearn for home, to reach for new flavors, and to sit a spell to soak it all in.
This is not typical fare, it’s an invitation into an true Indian kitchen.
When I met Preeti this evening, I felt like I was seeing a sister, kindred spirits, a familiarity that is a rare and beautiful thing. I don’t have a sister, but if I did, I imagine she’d be like Preeti, someone who just wants to serve up equal parts spice and goodness, literally and figuratively.
